Leather Goods

Today, bags are often perceived as fashion statements and status symbols, however, they weren’t always ment to be luxury objects, but made simply to carry provisions.

They were mail bags, tool bags, saddle bags, doctors bags or trunks.

A bag’s shape was dictated by what it needed to carry, the aesthetic was a natural result of its use.

We created a series of one of a kind bags that each reflect their own historical function in redefined material and shape.

Our bags are no symbols of status, but rather cultural design objects that endure long enough to become uniquely yours.

In the process of making our bags we use a variety of materials and crafting techniques:

Leather

The core foundation of our bags is vegetable tanned leather.

In a process that can take from several weeks up to months the leather gets tanned with natural plant tannins.

The result is a leather that is not only very durable and dense, but also ages and softens over time, developing a patina that tells the story of its use.

We locally source the tanned leather hides raw and undyed and hand finish them in our studio.

The leather we use shows natural grain, branding or scars. To reduce waste and maintain a connection to the leather’s origins, we place our patterns, and cut our leather, allowing natural marks to remain visible without turning them into a design feature.

Beveling and sanding the leather edges gives them a rounded and smooth appearance and feel.

We use spirit based leather dyes that soak into the open pores of the raw leather, dyeing the leather itself rather than coating it.

Repeated dyeing creates a deep but vivid and natural color.

When the dye has set we apply a variety of natural finishes like beeswax and different oils. This not only protects the dye but also gives the leather a rich sheen and smooth hand feel.

We use our vegetable tanned leather for bottom panels, flap closures and edge pipings, as well as rolled handles and shoulder straps.

The saddle stitch

Our leather is thick and stiff, so to join it we need a strong seam.

The saddle stitch originates in saddlemaking. It is done using a waxed cotton yarn and two needles.

Every hole of the seam is punched in advance, both needles are then passed through each hole from opposing sides, interlocking the yarn in every stitch.

A time intensive technique that makes the saddle seam the strongest of its kind.

Its characteristic wide stitch can be seen all over our bags.

Fabrics

Two types of fabric define the structure and character of our bags:

Ticking

Before the industrialization a lot of fabrics were woven in individual households.

Simple looms made it possible to weave fabrics domestically. The result were ticking fabrics, mainly used for bedding, aprons and upholstery.

Naturally an endless variety of patterns, colors and surfaces can be found.

We selected different antique ticking fabrics, handwoven in China and Japan over 100 years ago, to preserve a relic of the past and give it new purpose.

To bring them together we relied on another old practice that conveys care and respect for the fabric:

Sashiko

In rural Japan fabrics were scarce, and making them was a painstaking and long process.

Naturally the clothes that existed were cared for and repaired over and over.

Thick cotton threads, often white or indigo dyed, are used to piece together different fabrics with intricate stitch patterns. Every piece of cloth gets reused and added to another.

This technique is called sashiko.

Besides its purpose to mend holes and tears, the repeated adding of layers of fabric created thicker cloth that kept its wearer warm.

After some time different fabrics, stitches and marks of wear altogether create a boro fabric, an archive of time and wear.

We use the sashiko technique not only to create bags but also in its initial purpose: we repair clothes.

Every piece purchased from us can be sent back to us to be repaired and cared for.

Sailcloth

The second type of fabric used in our bags is a very heavy cotton canvas.

Used as a lining and inner layer under our sashiko or velours uppers this fabric grants structure, shape and most of all durability to our bags.

Though inspired by relics of the past, all of our bag linings are designed for modern use.

They each come with a large zipper compartment and multiple pockets in various sizes — meant to store sunglasses, laptops, wallets and, in some cases, enough things for overnight trips.

Hardware

Hardware determines function and longevity.

Rivets give strength, buckles make it adjustable and some components are simply decorative.

The composition of hardware is fundamental.

Cheap alloys or plastics break easily and often aren’t replaceable.

We use solid brass, stainless steel and sterling silver, each serving a unique purpose.

Drawing from saddlemaking, we used rivets and burrs to hold stitch lines and shoulder straps in place.

All of our shoulder straps are adjustable to the wearer and their habits with buckles or Sam Browne studs.

The latter derives from military gear and allows for quick adjustment without buckles.

The concho

Our final touch is our sterling silver concho.

Drawing from indigenous southwest silversmithing traditions, the concho was once used for saddles and horse tacks before finding its way into western dress.

Instead of the traditional casting methods, we 3D modeled our conchos in Blender.

They were then 3D printed and cast in 925 silver by JFD Function & Design.

Back in our studio we sanded and polished the concho before oxidizing it in a liver of sulfur solution to give it a dark aged patina.

Using steel wool the concho is then polished again to reveal highlights.

The concho is then placed onto the bag. It is not removable and will stay one with the bag.

Even though all bags are one of a kind objects we offer a bespoke service for our bags.

For inquiries or questions about our process and existing bags feel free to [ contact us ] at any time!